Tuesday - a mellow day at home

Looking down at Muros harbor

We woke up late and decided not to go anywhere.  It is so nice here in Muros!  Jim and Tony did a hike up the hills on the other side of Muros. 

Eva and I walked to the local beach in Muros - we were in Beach Glass Heaven!  We spent over an hour beach-combing.  I am going to make necklaces out of the beach glass I collected.

We decided to make dinner here and instead eat lunch out.  So we went to our favorite local tapas place and had: the local little scallops in garlic,  red peppers stuffed with ham paste,  croquettes stuffed with "crabmeat" which looked suspiciously like surimi, and a salad.  They are definitely not big on vegetables here.   One of the reasons we prefer to make dinner here.  Our salads are better too.

Then Tony and Jim went to the nice big beach at Area Maior to swim and walk around the Lagoon.  Eva and I retired to our respective beds and read and napped.

We cooked a wonderful dinner of Eva's Eggplant in spicy tomato sauce, a beautiful real salad, and Anita's Tortilla Espanola using our dozen farm eggs that we still had in the refrigerator.  Enrique wrote me an e-mail letting me know that they arrived in Newton and found everything in the house "perfect!"  Nyx was there to greet them and Buster is still hiding from the strangers.  Enrique also said that everything in the apartment is there for us - that means all the beer and wine and Freixenet in the refrigerator!  We are going to have a fun night.

Monday - the Road to Castro do Barona

View across the Ria to Muros

We had breakfast around 10 and headed out in the car to Noia and further on southwards down the coast.  What a beautiful day!  We drove along the Ria, pretty much all the way to the end, to a lighthouse.  We could see across the Ria to Muros.  Noia is a much bigger town than Muros, at least five times the population, maybe ten.  More of a real place to live, not as much of a tourist or vacation town.  Also not as pretty as Muros, although there were old buildings from medieval times scattered around the town.  We had coffee on a pretty plaza with palm trees.

Castro de Barona

We drove to the ruins of an iron age settlement called Castro de Barona.  It is situated on the end of a rocky peninsula, very spectacular location.  Also, the remains of the wall around the settlement and the foundations of the round houses were in very good shape.  Very impressive and atmospheric.

We also stopped at an old stone bridge from medieval times, and a lighthouse.

Then we went grocery shopping and had a pleasant dinner at home, of mussels in white wine and garlic.  Jim made bruschetta as an appetizer.  Accompanied by what has become our house drink, Sangria with oranges and peaches, and a salad.

Sunday Day 7 - Hike up the hill behind Muros

Parish church of Muros - very old!!!!

We got up late - again!!!  After all the driving yesterday, we decided to stay close to home and wander around Muros.  Gorgeous weather.  We all set off with our cameras (the three cameras that are left functioning) in our hiking clothes and walked up the hill behind Muros.  Lots of little windey narrow streets and houses with increasingly amazing views of the harbor and Ria.  We were looking for hiking trails up at the top of the hill, and possibly the remains of an iron age settlement that was up there.  Eva and I turned back when the brambles started to threaten our well-being but the boys plowed on to the very top of the hill.  Shops are all closed today but the cafes and bars and restaurants are open.  Three busloads of tourists came into town and created some business.  Later at tapas time the locals all came out.  

We had lunch on one of the little back streets in town.  There were two outdoor restaurants next to each other - we chose to sit at the one with the red chairs and the larger menu.  But what Eva wanted to order wasn't available, so she  got up and moved over to the next restaurant and ordered there.


Jim went over to check out her empanadas, and it looked pretty good, so he brought us some over to our restaurant.

Jim checking out Eva's empanadas

Tony likes the anchovies!

Then Tony went over to check out her next course, anchovies in vinegar.  I thought the waitress would have a fit but she was oblivious - crazy Americans she probably thought.  Turns out the anchovies in vinegar were delicious (who would have thought?)  so we brought over some of that too.  Then Eva had to move back to our table because her restaurant for some strange reason didn't have coffee.  Well it all worked out and everybody was fed and happy.

We live in the building in the middle

On the beach at sunset

After a siesta, the gang mixed up some Sangria and packed it up in bottles with ice and cups and we headed to the beach - Praia do Area Maior.  It is a beautiful beach just to the north of Mount Louro (check it out on Google Earth!)  about a mile long, with a lagoon behind the dunes.  The softest white sand.  Except for one couple strolling and a man walking his dog, we had it all to ourselves.  Tony brought his bathing suit and went swimming in the waves.  We sat on the dunes, drinking sangria on ice and watching a beautiful sunset.  Rough day.

Day 6 - Saturday - Finisterre - Voyage to the End of the World

Praia del Perro

Eva and our new friend

We were planning to get up early - ha, ha.  We left the apartment around noon for our planned trip up the coast to Finisterre. It is the westernmost point in Spain, almost the westernmost point in continental Europe (there is a spot in Portugal which is 5 km further west.)  The Romans named it that because they thought it was the end of the world, after which was only the deep dark sea.  It is also known in Gallego as Fisterra.  Many of the signs are written in Gallego and we are always trying to look up words in my Spanish dictionary and not finding them.  The coastal drive was beautiful, we had great weather.  Tony is really into beaches so we planned our itinerary to stop at whatever beautiful beaches we found.  We  drove through stunning farmlands with tiny settlements.  At one spot we found a rental dog who was more than happy to show us the way down the hill through the dunes to his totally deserted beach  and had fun playing with us.

On the way back we drove through a steep old town where the street was so narrow we were holding our breath between the houses and Jim had to pull in his mirror.  We were literally afraid of scraping the car against the houses!

day 5 - San Francisco and the Headlands

We woke up late again today, 10-ish, and had a leisurely breakfast as usual. I had queso fresco con membrillo. But the queso fresco in the hotel in Madrid was better. It was market day in Muros, so we all wandered out at different times to see the market. Eva bought more of that great peasant sourdough bread - it comes in amazingly large chunks and is so dense it is hard to cut. But delicious! I went out and bought myself nail polish remover, tissues, and peaches. Also a Tetilla cheese - that means "tit" and when you see the picture you will know why. Also some Andalusian spicy paprika so I can cook "a Gallego." Gallego style cooking is to cook things - like boil them or steam them in water, then dress them in olive oil, paprika and salt. I had octopus slices cooked that way, it is simple but very tasty. Today for lunch I cooked up a bunch of little green peppers that they eat here that way, very good.

It rained a little about lunchtime so we stayed in and made up a large salad and ate that fabulous bread with cheese and the local jamon.


After lunch the sun came out so we headed out in the car northwards (west and north) along the coast, further than we walked on Wednesday. We saw the beach at San Francisco and then went further to the next Lighthouse on Punta Carreiro. We were considering hiking up Mount Louro (241 meters) but the group was not in consensus. Then we had a very Jimish adventure which reduced me to tears. There was a fabulous view along the rocky headlands looking down to the beach Praia da Area Major. Jim and Tony wanted to walk down along the rocks but I was fearful and walked along the road. But then I was afraid of losing them and so I followed after getting my photos. Unfortunately I fell on the rocks with my camera in my hand, smashing the camera against a rock, destroying it. Then Jim and Tony wanted to climb further on the rocks out to the beach and Eva and I decided to go back up to the road and get to the beach that way. Unfortunately we could not find the path to the road again, we split up looking for it and I got lost in 5-foot tall brambles, dense and horrible, and couldn't find my way out. The others found me by voice and by my holding up my hat, but I still had to get through the brambles - it was quite horrible and I got terribly scratched all over - fortunately I was wearing long sleeves, boots and pants but the brambles got me anyway. Took a hot bath and pulled out whatever splinters I could find with needles and tweezers. It's only a flesh wound. I will survive. Jim poured me a stiff drink, that helped dull the pain and trauma somewhat. We will go out for a nice dinner at a Parrillada (that's a grilled meat) restaurant.

day 5 - Santiago de Compostela

Cathedral of Saint James de Compostela

We slept late today. I was hearing Spanish conversations in my head last night and had a hard time falling asleep. After a nice breakfast of bread, Jamon and Queso (now three different kinds) we got in the car and headed toward Santiago de Compostela. It's a beautiful old medieval city, all about the pilgrimages that Catholics do for some (to me) obscure reason. To get blessings, I think. We saw some pilgrims, a lot of them standing in a long line to get their pilgrimage cards officially stamped. You are allowed to make the pilgrimage on foot, by horseback, or by bicycle. You can tell who the Pilgrims are because they carry staffs and hang scallop shells from their backpacks. We haven't figured out why the scallop shells. Car doesn't count but I have to wonder how many people cheat. So the story is that the remains of Saint James, one the original twelve apostles, were brought to Santiago de Compostela after he was martyred in Jerusalem . His remains were supposedly discovered here in 814 AD and the city became a pilgrimage site. It is now a World Heritage Site. This is a photo of the Cathedral of Saint James (Sant Iago, also known as Sankt Jacob and San Diego.) In the Cathedral we saw the container of the original Staff (or so they say) of Saint James. We didn't stand in the line to hug the statue of Saint James or see his sarcophagus. After a nice lunch outdoors on a pleasant small plaza where I had Oysters and the most amazing dessert they called cheesecake but was really a flan made of some kind of fresh cheese, we walked through the town to the Museum of the Galician People. They had a lot of exhibits of the traditional Galician way of life, old musical instruments, old sailboats, old costumes, and models of old farmhouses. It would take many days to do Santiago de Compostela justice, there is an awful lot to see there. Mostly churches and monasteries. But the architecture is gorgeous.

day 4 - first day in Muros

The town square in Muros

 Along the coast

We all slept late, what a treat! No need to hurry, we have more than a week here. Nice weather and a nice breakfast. Great ham, bread, and cheese. Great oranges.

At 1 PM we finally got ourselves together to take a walk along the shore road. Hoped to find the lagoon but missed it. Nice views anyway and took lots of pictures. Found one of Enrique's recommended fish restaurants, where Jim, Tony, and I returned at 2:30 for lunch. They eat lunch

and dinner quite late here. We are transitioning to Spanish time. Had grilled langostinos and fried calamari. Excellent! The proprietor speaks great English – he lived in NY for 12 years.

Otherwise I am getting to practice my bad Spanish a lot. I make myself understood and understand most of what is said. I am learning new words every day, probably by the dozen. Also Gallego, a different language from Spanish, more related to Portuguese and French. Very interesting. They use “Rua” for street or Calle. They also use a lot of “Xs” as in San Xuan.

Had a long rest at Siesta time – all the stores close from around 2 PM to around 5 PM. Then we went to the grocery store and stocked up again, in case we want to eat a lunch or dinner in. Bought olives stuffed with anchovies – they are actually quite good.

Galician Seafood

Also a blood sausage that is to die for! The local cheeses are very good, we are trying a few of those. The local bread is a slightly darkish sourdough, we like that a lot too. Went out to dinner at 9:30 PM to a local tavern (there are lots of them!) and had excellent razor clams, little scallops, stuffed mushrooms, and stuffed peppers. We generally share Raciones. I drank a Sidra. (you can guess what that is.)

Jim and Tony beat their brains out for an hour trying to figure out how to get the Internet connection working. They finally succeeded! Tony and Jim both brought their iPods so we are well equipped for music. Fortunately our tastes run along the same lines. Jim and Tony are so funny together – I think Jim has found his true soulmate! Eva says they are twins separated at birth. Eva and Tony are a great pair and we are enjoying their company immensely.

I went down to the Optician's where Mari Carmen works, first to ask about the Internet and then to help Tony buy a pair of prescription sunglasses. Both very complicated transactions but Mari Carmen is very nice and patient and we all managed to make ourselves understood. Funny how I have become the official translator! Anyway it is good for me to practice speaking Spanish, even though quite badly.

Day 3 - driving to Muros

The parapets at Avila

Medina del Campo

Rented a nice VW Wagon with lots of room for us and all our luggage and started the long drive to Muros. Stopped by way of Avila and drove through the old walled town. Very cool, picturesque. Then drove to Medina del Campo (Medina is the Arabic word for Market) and had an amazing lunch in the main Plaza, white tablecloth, 3 courses, wine, water, bread, dessert & coffee for an amazing 10 Euros each! And it was delicious. Had Natillas for dessert, a type of custard.

Stopped on the way to Muros at a small supermarket and bought breakfast provisions, bread, cheese, ham, jam, coffee, milk, eggs etc. Arrived in Muros at sundown around 8:30 PM. I called Mari Carmen (the lady in the Optician's shop who was holding the key for us) to tell her when we would be arriving. Jim, Tony, and Eva were impressed that I could have a telephone conversation all in Spanish. Mari Carmen does not speak English but I can understand her Spanish very well. She tries and speaks slowly for me. She complimented me on my Spanish too – that's joke!!! We are very happy with the apartment, it is spacious and comfortable. But there are children's toys around – he does NOT have college-aged daughters! Oh well. He lied to me because I wrote that we do not want to exchange with families with children. But it's a good exchange anyway. Muros is a delightful old town, great character. The apartment is in a centuries-old building right on the quaint old town square overlooking the harbor. The tourist season is over so it is very quiet.

Day 2 - welcome to Madrid

Hotel Atlantico in Madrid

Arrived in Madrid. Waited 2 ½ hours for a hotel bus that never came; we were on the wrong level. So we took a cab to the hotel. Hotel (Best Western Atlantico) was very nice, good friendly helpful desk personnel and a great location on the Gran Via. Madrid is beautiful and a great walking city. Lots of plazas.

Tony and Jim at lunch in Madrid - great Paella!

We slept a bit, then met Tony and Eva for lunch and walked around a bunch. Too tired to eat dinner so we went back to sleep.

Day 1 - off to Madrid

Said goodbye to the cats and headed off to Madrid on the 6:20 PM Iberia flight. Iberia did everything right, e-mail check-in and the flight all went smooth as silk. Slept 4 ½ hours thanks to Ambien.